IN THE TRAIN FROM WELIGAMA TO COLOMBO
The train turns and I look out of the window and see the red locomotive through the jungle green; it seems as if the thick vegetation all round us opens up to let the train pass. To my left is the sea, the waves breaking quietly on the shore. I swing from left to right and backwards and forwards. The noise of the wheels on the tracks and the coaches banging together is deafening. No rest for the ears.
The carriage door opens onto the tracks. It is a heavy metal door painted red with the number three on it in bright yellow with a black outline. There are no partitions inside or out - doors and windows are open to the view.
A blind man selling lottery tickets tries to keep his balance and gropes for a hand hold as he tries to earn a few rupees.
Then all at once silence. The train stops nobody knows why. The noise of iron wheels on the tracks is replaced by birdsong and the sound of the wind in the palm trees. A short rest and we are off again. A short time later we arrive at Galle,the first stop. Crowds on the platform,people rushing about pushing and shoving to get one of the few seats. Women in saris, men in white shirts and sarongs, students. Finally calm is restored. On the platform there is a small mobile shop with a "Nescafé" parasol. Men are crowded round it holding cups.
In the background another train waits and many children look out of the windows. Smiles are exchanged, white teeth light up dark faces and black eyes are aglow. The sound of a coin falling attracts my attention. A sick man is crawling down there . He is eaten away by leprosy with no feet or nose and only a few fingers.
Panadura. A town almost totally destroyed with slums each side of the railway. I can almost touch them by holding out a hand. On both sides a crowded scene. Washing drying on the tracks with lots of little stones to keep the clothes from blowing away. A family sitting on the rails to eat. The passing train does not disturb them.
The damage caused by the tsunami is evident and I can see it everywhere. I cannot get used to the idea of these piles of stones and cement with old tents flapping in the wind. Everywhere there are huts made of left over materials - wood,plastic corrugated iron. Misery that will be a long time passing. How many years will it take to clear the ruins and forget the tsunami ? They are a reminder of a catastrophe. At the same time new houses appear beside the railway, painted and ready for a new future. But the inhabitants still look at the blue horizon with fear and it shows in their eyes. They have lost hope and feel sure that there will be another tsunami.
Opposite me is a woman with an orange sari over a tight black bodice, two gold earrings and a bright smile. She fingers small spice seeds of different colours before eating them. The smell reminds me of India where these small digestive seeds are served at the end of a meal.
Food sellers walk up and down. Balls of maize with a red pepper dressing in wicker baskets; little packets of small eats, peanuts,chick peas all tied to a long metal rod. One of them carries on his head delicious pieces of pineapple cut into small cubes.
150 Klm and four hours later and here I am in Colombo.
The carriage door opens onto the tracks. It is a heavy metal door painted red with the number three on it in bright yellow with a black outline. There are no partitions inside or out - doors and windows are open to the view.
A blind man selling lottery tickets tries to keep his balance and gropes for a hand hold as he tries to earn a few rupees.
Then all at once silence. The train stops nobody knows why. The noise of iron wheels on the tracks is replaced by birdsong and the sound of the wind in the palm trees. A short rest and we are off again. A short time later we arrive at Galle,the first stop. Crowds on the platform,people rushing about pushing and shoving to get one of the few seats. Women in saris, men in white shirts and sarongs, students. Finally calm is restored. On the platform there is a small mobile shop with a "Nescafé" parasol. Men are crowded round it holding cups.
In the background another train waits and many children look out of the windows. Smiles are exchanged, white teeth light up dark faces and black eyes are aglow. The sound of a coin falling attracts my attention. A sick man is crawling down there . He is eaten away by leprosy with no feet or nose and only a few fingers.
Panadura. A town almost totally destroyed with slums each side of the railway. I can almost touch them by holding out a hand. On both sides a crowded scene. Washing drying on the tracks with lots of little stones to keep the clothes from blowing away. A family sitting on the rails to eat. The passing train does not disturb them.
The damage caused by the tsunami is evident and I can see it everywhere. I cannot get used to the idea of these piles of stones and cement with old tents flapping in the wind. Everywhere there are huts made of left over materials - wood,plastic corrugated iron. Misery that will be a long time passing. How many years will it take to clear the ruins and forget the tsunami ? They are a reminder of a catastrophe. At the same time new houses appear beside the railway, painted and ready for a new future. But the inhabitants still look at the blue horizon with fear and it shows in their eyes. They have lost hope and feel sure that there will be another tsunami.
Opposite me is a woman with an orange sari over a tight black bodice, two gold earrings and a bright smile. She fingers small spice seeds of different colours before eating them. The smell reminds me of India where these small digestive seeds are served at the end of a meal.
Food sellers walk up and down. Balls of maize with a red pepper dressing in wicker baskets; little packets of small eats, peanuts,chick peas all tied to a long metal rod. One of them carries on his head delicious pieces of pineapple cut into small cubes.
150 Klm and four hours later and here I am in Colombo.
posted by solene for ayubowan at 4:12 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home